STOKED. SURFING. LIFE.
That feeling of waking up from a good night rest and getting out of your hammock to check if there are waves on your fave spot. Waistline waves playing with the reef while the sun is beginning to show its anticrepuscular rays. Because you are excited, you are already wearing you fave board shorts, you donned your rash guard for a complete surfer feel.
By this time you now get your surfboard, apply wax on the slippery areas, put on your leash and begin paddling out to the sea. As your feet have a first taste of salt water and the spumes begin to touch your board you feel alive, excited. You now get on your board and suddenly sniff the newly applied wax, you feel refreshed, invigorated just by the smell of it. Ecstatic and thrilled to the bones, you pitch your eyes on the horizon trying to examine the direction you are going. After some seconds you sit on your board and continue examining the horizon. Then you see surfable sets of waves, you turn around asap and begin to paddle. Paddling harder as the waves become nearer. As soon as the waves push you and your board you begin to realize that you are one with the board and the wave, you are now riding it. 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1…. The force ended and you begin to paddle out again.
That is the feeling of being stoked. Happened to me for 5 straight days while I’m here in Dahican Beach, Mati City, Davao Oriental. As I said in my previous post, “Life is Better When You Surf.”
Thank you very much for Amihan Surf and Skim Team for adopting me, treating me as one of your own.I will be forever grateful to Kuya Jun “Botchok” Plaza, Allan, Pedro and Juan for lending me longboards.
Thanks also to R.O.X. Bonifacio High Street for the trendy O’neill Rash Guard and Board Shorts.
Let’s continue to surfing! Hang loose! ‘m/