Hidden among the mountains of the Cordilleras is the province of Kalinga. Civilization here dates back centuries ago but its just 17 years old as it was part of a bigger province before- Kalinga-Apayao.
Its one province that would forever be etched on my mind as I experienced true hospitality and saw the living heritage it offers the world.
I would like to write more detailed articles about Kalinga, particularly where I stayed for 3 days and 2 nights- Buscalan, Tinglayan so I would be doing a photo essay for now.
10 Photos from Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga
Buscalan, Tinglayan Sunrise
Buscalan Sunrise
I waited for about 30 minutes when the sun finally turned the green mountain into gold. It lasted for only 10 minutes. Magical!
Aromatic Kalinga Coffee
Aromatic Kalinga Coffee
They peel the coffee beans then dry it under the sun. Aromatic Kalinga coffee. I miss their organic brew. I think I drink a total of 8 cups when I was there, and they don’t charge you for drinking coffee.
New Generation of Kalinga
New Generarion of Kalinga, from the Butbut tribe
These young kids gathered together beside the house where I am staying. Curious of me, maybe asking what I am doing in there place.
First day of Planting Season
First Day of Planting Season
If I arrived a day earlier, I would have stayed outside the community. Luckily, I arrived on the first day of planting season. I even tried planting rice the next day.
Fang-od Tattooing
Fang-od and Dr. Vene
The last Kalinga Tattoo artist- Fang-od/Fhang-od, 89, she carefully tattoos Dr. Vene of Ateneo with the ancient method she learned during her teen years. She was featured by Discovery Channel’s Tattoo Hunter by Lars Krutak
Disciplined pig
Disciplined pig
Pigs and chicken live together under the native Kalinga hut. This pig is disciplined because he ate a chick.
Head Axe
Head Axe
Kalinga tribes are known to be head hunters. This is a head-axe which according to the owner was inherited from his grandfather. I believe this head axe has beheaded many before.
Basketball
Basketball
The unofficial National Sports of Filipinos. They have a full basketball court there, half of it cemented while the other half as you can see is dirt ground.
Tattooed Kalinga Women
Tattooed Kalinga Women
The last generation of the tattooed Kalinga women. The tattoos they have are like ornaments that make them more attractive to their suitors.
Buscalan, Tinglayan Sunset
Buscalan Sunset
Fog begins to hide the mountains. I took this shot during my last night in the village. I wish to be back for more sunrise and sunset.
___ ___ ___
I consider my stay in Buscalan, Tingalayan in the province of Kalinga one of the highlights of my ISANG DAAN Journey . This happened during Days 14, 15 & 16 of #isangdaan.
#ISANGDAAN is a personal journey and challenge to backpack around the Philippines the cheapest way possible for 100 days. “Isang Daan” is a Filipino term that can mean either “one way” or “one hundred.”
If you want real time updates, you can check my facebook page: www.facebook.com/journeyingjames or follow me on twitter: @journeyingjames
If you want to follow my steps, I have an interactive map- ISANGDAAN Journey map.
wow beautiful pictures to capture a wonderful journey…
i hope to those places too.
all the best james
indeed thea! grabe, i was speechless to be discovering this town.
i actually needed to detach myself often to think about what i am witnessing.
The tatts look astig! Masakit daw ba vs the machine? I’ve tried the thai traditional tattoo.. Didn’t hurt.
pareho lang daw, medyo matagal lang sa kalinga kasi nga di-pukpok
Astig ang tattoo artist!
napaka hopeful nmn nung tinglayan sunrise.. 🙂 two thumbs up to Maria Fang-od.. representing tough Filipino women..
indeed! i really love the golden color. the small huts below are the granary
WOW! (bow)…speechless :))
Ow… heart=warming. Gusto ko makita si Fang-Od in person. SAdly siya na ba talaga ang last? Such an amazing culture and tradition kaya lang parang weird na talaga kapag ang isang babae ngayon ay may ganyang tattoo. Tsk tsk tsk. SAna mapreserve pa rin. Ganda nito kuya James!
she has a protege now, her 16-year old pamangkin.
thanks edmar!
ang sakit ng old method, but im happy to see it was still being done.
napanood ko sa tv (with kara david) meron ng mga dalaga na nagtatattoo the traditional way. madami daw kasing turista ang nagpupunta jan para sa mano-manong tattoo.
di naman daw sabi nung mga nagpa-tattoo.
medyo matagal nga lang daw yung procedure kasi nga its mano-mano
hope next post would be ( how to get to Buscalan)
will wait for that post ! 😀
ingat!
sige… will write something about that.
nagpatattoo ka din ba?
di ko pa kaya! haha
I’ve been wanting to meet Fang-Od after I’ve seen a documentary about Kalinga, lucky you got to see this ritual, hopefully she’s still there and still tattooing when I get the chance to visit the village.
are you planning to get inked when you get there?
Kudos James!
thanks jade!
wow, ganda nmn ng sunrise…super like=)
thanks arisse! hmmm.. i wonder why almost everyone like that photo?
The first photo is so magical. Ang dami ko nang gustong puntahan na lugar, since I visited your blog.hehehe. Di ka ngpa tattoo?
really?
not yet, not this time…
I’m planning to add a piece of art from the Kalinga women to my tattoo collection soon. But I will wait for your post about it first. I would like to make sure that I am indeed worthy to have one 🙂
go Rica! yes, i will post something about it.
i know you will get one.
nakakainggit ang mga travels mo ser…and the tattoo artist is way too cool to pass, sana meron akong gawa nya 🙂
you can have your tats din there! hirap nga lang mag hike. thanks!
kapag nagpunta ako dito, i wont go home without even a small tattoo on my back.. as a souvenir.. to think na last generation na sila.. honor para saken na magpa tattoo sa kanya, and i will treasure that memory for life.. once in a lifetime kuya james.. cant wait hehe..
i hope you get a tattoo from Fang-od soon!
I heard of Fang-od here in Palawan when I met a missionary in Kalinga who was having a vacation here. Based on his stories Kalinga is worth going to and staying.
really? is she virgie?
yes pre, i know you will love it there, bundukero ka e
nice!
Lupit sir…
Hi James… How can I have a tattoo from her? tnx..
wait for my post about it. just visit the site often 🙂
wow! our country really is awesome! im so happy she is still alive, i was hearing about her years ago and really wanted to see her and visit her, just i dont know where how. at least now, i have her name and place, thank u thank u so much po! just one last ? how many days u think it would require to finish a tattoo fromher?
last na po talaga – does she design tattoo, u know based on some belief or something?
thank u so much po again, more power!
just 2hours for a small tattoo. she has the book where you can choose a tattoo that you want. you can also rea the meaning of the tattoos there. hope you get one form her irene
yup, thanks a lot, kind a scared to have one, but i really wanted though, n i want my tattoo to b meaningful as well, thank u so much again. ill update when i have one already. thank u so mucg again, more power!
I found the concept of the disciplined pig very amusing! (Oh yeah, why not. I haven’t thought about that) Can’t wait for your Kalinga story=). Still reading your Isangdaan journey bit by bit at off-duty days. Congratulations Kuya James!
stumbled on your blog while searching for a photo of fang-od:)
what a wonderful way to discover the country. and this one in particular is death by inggit. haha
PS My friend visited the place a a couple of months ago and got himself inked by Fang-Od. 😀
that is cool! when i get back, i want to get inked too
pwede po malaman kung paano po makapunta sa buscalan cause am planning po pumunta po for documentation po kung they still name their children hango sa kanilang mga ninuno.
the names of their children nowadays are common names we use
James, it’s in the Cordillera mountain range not Sierra Madre 🙂
ohhh! yep, you are right! i must have mixed up the two, haha
edited it already! thanks for the correction sir!
Pano po kayo pumunta dun sa tribo galing sa Tinglayan? may guide po ba kayo?
nice blog, sir pwedeng malaman kung magkano ung cost ng travel mo to sagada included na lahat.. and kung magkano ung bayad for the ink from fang-od? maraming salamat
may contact ka ba sir or guide n pede namin macontact din ?
Pike Soria
Bontoc and Buscalan Traditional Tattoo Artist Guide
Ariadne766@yahoo.com
09104257504
There’s an exhibit plus a book by Jake Verzosa that features the last tattooed women of Kalinga. Will go see the exhibit this Sunday. I’m pretty sure the women you’ve met in your travel are the same ones in the coffee book.